The Laureato Collection was first introduced as a Quartz Chronometer in mid 1970s. In 1995 Girard-Perregaux relaunched the model but this time with an in-house mechanical hand wound and automatic movement. We will be looking at the automatic version.

Marking a return to mechanical watchmaking in the industry, the Laureato Automatic was available in both bi-metallic case and full steel version like its predecessor, rose and yellow gold. 

One of the hardest components to produce historically had been the bracelet, it was changed in 1984 in the second edition of Quartz timepieces. The bracelet kept the dual colour and featured separate segments addressing the 1970s production challenge. This third generation bracelet, the small middle links are shaped in a way to reflect the Clous de Paris pattern on the dial. This brought new challenges when polishing them. The links had to be polished prior to assembling the bracelet, all further manipulation of the bracelet had to be done with the upmost care.

Function: centre seconds, date, hours and minutes.

Movement reference 3100, height 2,98mm

The bezel is polished gold and the remainder of the case is in steel, with a brushed finish on top and on the sides. Running along the side of the case is a mirror polished angle that contrasts with the brush finishing.

The case back is solid, with a circular grain finish and the name Laureato engraved. The font used for the company name has changed. The water resistance and watch references are also engraved on the case back, it is held in place by 6 screws.

The case back removed; inside the case back is a synthetic seal.

With the case back removed we see the movement in the movement ring. Two sets of screw holes are visible on the case: one that holds the case back in place, the other holds the bezel.

The dial removed from the movement, the dial effect is “Clous de Paris”in French, a literal translation is “Paris nails”. This effect in English is known as hobnails.

The underside of the dial reveals the dial feet and the markings where the hour markers have been positioned.

The hour, minute and seconds hands that follow the design of the dial markers. The hour, minute and the hour markers have lume for night readability.

The dial removed reveals the calendar disc

The movement removed from the case, revealing the Geneva stripes and pearlage / spotting decoration on the movement that would only ever be seen by the watchmaker. In this image the dial is still in position.

The automatic rotor removed

The balance wheel and pallet fork removed

Bridge removed to reveal the gear train

The removal of the main spring and bridge reveals the calendar disc on the dial side. The gear train has also been removed.

The main plate revealing the 9 jewels and the setting mechanism.

The simplicity of the crown design links back to the original design from the 1970s.

CONCLUSION

By 1995 when this watch was re-launched, the novelty of quartz technology had long disappeared. Watch enthusiasts and collectors returned to the more traditional art of mechanical timepieces. The launch of a mechanically powered Laureato was all important for the commercially successful Quartz Chronometer model from the 1970s. It meant that the Laureato as a collection would continue well into the future as a mechanical timepiece. Future versions would build upon this timepiece by evolving not just aesthetically but also technically, and its quartz origins would be shelved as a part of horological history.