The Naked Watchmaker

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Cartiers Beautiful Hands

Found in this 1930’s Art Deco Cartier pocket watch is an unusual system for assembly of the case. Resulting from the onyx material used in the main body, the onyx was in essence hollowed out forming a cup for the mechanism and dial. The system was often executed by Cartier but few others.

The circular engine turned style dial with black Roman numerals and blued steel hands are removed prior to the movement to gain access to the stem allowing the movement to then be removed. The movement is loaded into the watch case from the front, held in a brass ring on the inside of the onyx and the gold and enamelled bezel is in turn locked in place with the four screws set into the 4 flower patterns at 12, 3, 6, 9.

The movement is signed European Watch and Clock Company. In the early 1920s Cartier formed a joint company with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to produce movements solely for Cartier. The European Watch and Clock company was born, Cartier continued to use movements from other makers including Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado and LeCoultre.

Cartier was founded in Paris, France in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the company remained under family control until 1964. It maintains its headquarters in Paris and is now a fully owned subsidiary of Richemont SA.

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